Frequently Asked Questions: Saunas
A sauna is more than a purchase — it’s a wellness ritual for your home. This FAQ section was created to simplify every step of your journey. Here, you’ll find straightforward answers to the most common questions about choosing, installing, and enjoying your sauna. If anything feels unclear, our team is only a message away.
Quick Sauna Answers
Choosing the right size depends on how many people will use the sauna and the space you have available. Most families find a 2–4 person sauna ideal, while couples or solo users often choose a compact 1–2 person model. If you enjoy hosting or want extra room to stretch out, a 4–6 person layout offers a more spacious experience.
Traditional saunas heat the air around you and can reach higher temperatures, creating that classic steam-and-heat environment. Infrared saunas warm your body directly using gentle radiant heat, which feels soothing at lower temperatures. Both offer a relaxing, restorative experience — it simply depends on the style of heat you prefer.
Indoor saunas are easy to access year-round and work well in basements, garages, wellness rooms, or spare spaces. Outdoor saunas offer a more immersive spa experience and pair beautifully with a backyard, deck, or cabin setting. The best choice comes down to your available space and the type of atmosphere you want to create at home.
Many smaller infrared saunas plug into a standard household outlet, making installation simple. Traditional saunas and larger models usually require a 240V connection and should be installed by a licensed electrician. Always make sure the electrical panel in your home has adequate capacity before installation.
Infrared saunas warm up quickly — usually within 10–20 minutes. Traditional saunas typically take 30–45 minutes depending on the heater size, outside temperature, and insulation. Allowing a proper warm-up helps create a comfortable, even heat throughout the sauna.
Home saunas are surprisingly energy-efficient.
Approximate operating costs:
- Infrared: Around $0.20–$0.40 per session
- Traditional: Typically $0.40–$0.75 per session
Actual costs depend on the heater size, session length, and your local electricity rates, but most users find the monthly energy impact minimal.
Yes. Most home saunas are designed for simple assembly with clear instructions. Infrared saunas often connect with easy panel-to-panel latches, while barrel and outdoor models fit together using pre-cut staves and secure bands. Typically, two people can complete the setup in a few hours using basic tools.
GENERAL SAUNA KNOWLEDGE
A traditional sauna uses a heater filled with stones to warm the air inside the room. As the air temperature rises, your body heats up gradually. Pouring a small amount of water over the stones creates steam, which increases humidity and intensifies the heat. This produces the classic, dry-to-steam heat environment people associate with saunas.
Infrared saunas warm your body directly using infrared heating elements. Instead of heating the air first, the wavelengths penetrate the skin’s surface to create a gentle, even warmth. This allows for a comfortable heat experience at lower air temperatures, usually between 120–150°F.
The two experiences feel noticeably different:
- Traditional: Hot air, steam option, stronger heat sensation, more intense “sweat room” effect.
- Infrared: Softer, radiant warmth that builds gradually and feels easier to breathe.
A wet sauna is simply a traditional dry sauna with added steam. When you pour water on the heated stones, moisture rises into the room, increasing humidity and giving you a gentler yet more enveloping heat. This is known as löyly in Finnish culture. You can control how much steam you create based on your preference.
Traditional saunas: 160–195°F
Infrared saunas: 120–150°F
Most people enjoy sessions between 10–20 minutes, depending on heat preference and experience. Traditional sessions are often shorter but more intense, while infrared sessions may last a bit longer due to the gentler heat. Always listen to your body and step out whenever needed.
Yes. Proper airflow keeps the heat even and maintains air quality. Traditional saunas typically have an intake vent near the heater and an exhaust vent higher up on the opposite wall. Infrared saunas rely on small gaps around the door or built-in vents for natural air circulation.
Weight varies by model and wood type, but these are approximate values:
- Infrared: Usually 200–600 lbs
- Barrel: Often 900-1500 lbs due to thick staves
- Cabin-style: Can range from 1000–1,500+ lbs
Always check your floor or foundation to ensure it can support the weight.
Yes. Traditional and infrared saunas can be used in all seasons. Outdoor models are built to handle everything from summer heat to winter snow. Many people find saunas especially enjoyable on colder days, when the temperature contrast feels most refreshing.
Allow enough room for the sauna’s footprint plus a bit of clearance for access and ventilation. Typical guidelines are below, but we ask for you to review the specifications for accurate information:
- Infrared: As little as 3' x 4' of floor space.
- Barrel: 6'–7' length for smaller models; longer for multi-bench layouts.
- Cabin: Similar to a small shed or compact room addition.
Infrared wavelengths vary in depth and feel:
- Near infrared: Shallowest penetration, often used in panel or lamp-style emitters
- Mid infrared: Moderate depth, provides a balanced radiant heat
- Far infrared: Deepest warmth and the most common wavelength in home saunas
Infrared saunas require minimal ventilation, typically through built-in vents or small gaps around the door. Traditional saunas need purposeful airflow — intake near the heater and exhaust higher up — to maintain a comfortable and consistent heat distribution.
Barrel Saunas Made Simple and Clear
Barrel saunas heat efficiently, install easily, and offer a spacious outdoor retreat. This guide covers space, foundations, assembly, ventilation, heaters, and care so you can choose the right model with confidence.
Barrel Saunas
A barrel sauna uses a curved, stave-style structure that heats quickly and evenly. The rounded shape minimizes internal volume, so heat circulates efficiently and stays concentrated near the benches. The curved roof naturally sheds rain and snow, and the interior feels open and spacious without needing any interior framing.
Most barrel saunas use thermally modified spruce or pine, western red cedar, or hemlock. Thermo-wood is especially popular because the heat-treatment process stabilizes the fibers, making the boards more resistant to warping and moisture. Cedar offers a naturally aromatic, moisture-resistant surface, while spruce or hemlock create a clean, modern aesthetic for indoor or outdoor builds.
The typical footprint ranges from 6 to 10 feet in length and about 6 to 7 feet in diameter. You should also allow a small amount of clearance around the sauna so the walls can breathe and the structure can be accessed for adjustments or maintenance. A larger model will need extra room if it includes benches on both sides or a full glass front.
A stable, level base is essential. Barrel saunas can be placed on a gravel pad, concrete slab, paver stones, or a deck platform. The key is that the base supports the weight evenly and sheds water away from the bottom of the staves. A level foundation also ensures the door operates correctly and helps prevent gaps between the boards during temperature changes.
Most barrel saunas take 1-2 days to assemble with two people. The process includes positioning the cradles, installing the end walls, fitting each stave in sequence, tightening the bands, and installing the benches and door. Models with glass fronts require more attention because the panels must be handled carefully and aligned perfectly.
Barrel sauna staves lock together using tongue-and-groove milling and are tightened using exterior stainless-steel bands. During assembly, temporary braces or straps help keep everything aligned until the final bands are adjusted. Once tightened evenly, the sauna forms a tight, weather-resistant seal without any interior framing.
Insulation is generally not necessary. The curved shape and thick lumber naturally retain heat, and thermally modified boards offer even greater thermal performance. Properly assembled, a barrel sauna keeps heat effectively even in colder climates, and the reduced internal volume helps reduce warm-up time.
A roof kit isn’t mandatory but is recommended in areas with heavy rain or snow. It protects the exterior from accelerated weathering, keeps the sauna cleaner, and reduces how often you need to treat the wood. In sheltered locations like under a pergola or overhang, a roof kit becomes optional.
Most barrel saunas have a lower intake vent near the heater and a higher exhaust vent at the back of the sauna. This creates a steady, comfortable airflow. Proper venting prevents the air from feeling stagnant, supports even heat distribution, and helps the sauna dry properly after each use.
Heater size depends on the internal volume. Smaller barrels typically use a 6 kW heater, while medium and large models often use an 8 or 9 kW unit. Wood-burning heaters are also an option for those who want an off-grid or traditional experience. Using the correct heater size ensures efficient warm-up times and consistent heat.
Most barrel saunas include a tempered-glass door, often framed in matching wood. Larger models may include full-glass front walls for a panoramic effect. Doors must open outward for safety, and hinges can typically be adjusted to ensure smooth operation as the wood naturally expands or contracts.
Yes, as long as there is enough height clearance and proper ventilation. Many customers prefer a partially covered location to protect the exterior and extend the life of the wood. Just ensure that the heater clearances follow the manufacturer’s safety requirements.
Maintenance is simple. Wipe down benches after use, air out the sauna regularly, and keep standing water away from the base. Exterior wood should be treated annually with a breathable protective oil. Interior wood should remain untreated to handle high heat. It’s also important to replace heater stones as they wear down and to inspect the door hinges periodically.
Infrared Sauna Essentials and Key Guidance
Infrared saunas warm the body directly using radiant heat, creating a comfortable environment for consistent use. Explore common questions about temperature expectations, electrical needs, placement options, materials, and routine care.
infrared saunas
Infrared saunas warm your body directly using radiant heat rather than heating the surrounding air. The panels emit far-infrared wavelengths that penetrate tissue 1–3 inches deep, creating a gentle internal warmth that triggers perspiration at much lower temperatures than a traditional sauna. This makes the experience easier to breathe in and more comfortable for longer sessions.
Most infrared saunas operate between 110°F and 135°F, although premium models can reach up to 150–170°F. It’s normal for beginners to start cooler and increase gradually. Your sauna may take 15–25 minutes to reach the set point depending on ambient room temperature, airflow, and placement.
Most users enjoy 20–45 minutes. Shorter sessions are common in the first two weeks as your body adapts. Once you’re comfortable, longer therapeutic sessions are perfectly normal. Many manuals recommend limiting your first month to 3 sessions per week, then building to daily use if desired.
Most indoor infrared saunas run on a standard 120V / 15A dedicated circuit, much like a space heater. Energy consumption is low — roughly similar to a hair dryer — making them one of the most energy-efficient types of saunas available.
Depending on the model, you’ll see:
- Carbon-panel heaters for wide, even heat distribution (common in many brands).
- Ceramic heaters for more concentrated radiant output.
- Hybrid or Spectrum Plus™ heaters, which combine low EMF, high-output infrared, and long lifespan technology designed to operate safely even in high humidity settings.
Most modern infrared saunas are engineered to keep EMF extremely low. Many models average 3–10 milligauss measured 2 inches from the panel, which is far below levels from everyday household appliances. Low-EMF design sits at the core of most infrared sauna engineering today.
Yes — they are self-contained indoor units and don’t require plumbing or venting. The best placements are dry, level rooms such as bedrooms, basements, fitness rooms, or spare spaces. Always allow a few inches of clearance around the exterior and avoid humid environments unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.
Interior wood should remain untreated so it handles heat safely. A simple wipe-down with a damp cloth is all that’s needed. For the exterior, many brands recommend a breathable natural polish or beeswax to preserve the finish. Avoid chemical cleaners — infrared heat can cause them to off-gas later.
Yes — nearly all modern infrared saunas include Bluetooth or auxiliary connections, often built into the main control panel. You can connect your phone or device to stream music or guided meditations. Some models note that Bluetooth quality may vary depending on updates to your device’s operating system.
Maintenance is extremely low. Wipe down the bench and walls with a clean damp cloth after use, keep the floor clear, and occasionally sand out small scratches. Many brands recommend a light “burn-off” cycle at maximum temperature if the sauna has been unused for a period of time.
Heater Basics and Key Considerations
Sauna heaters create the warmth that defines each session, whether powered by electricity or wood. This section covers common questions about heat output, installation needs, placement, ventilation, and general usage considerations.
Electric Heater
Heater size depends on the internal volume of your sauna. Most indoor and outdoor saunas require a 6 kW, 8 kW, or 9 kW heater depending on their cubic footage. Larger spaces or models with glass fronts may need the next size up to heat efficiently. Always match the heater to the sauna’s rated specifications to ensure proper performance.
In many cases, yes — upgrading to a larger heater can reduce warm-up time, but only if the sauna is designed to support that heater size. Oversizing the heater beyond the manufacturer’s recommendation can cause overheating, incorrect cycling, or safety shutoffs. It’s best to confirm compatibility before upgrading.
Most traditional electric sauna heaters require a 240V dedicated circuit with the correct amperage and wire gauge. Smaller heaters may run on a 30A line, while larger ones may require 40–50A. Electrical work should be handled by a licensed electrician according to local building codes.
Traditional sauna heaters are almost always hardwired due to their voltage and amperage requirements. This ensures consistent power delivery and proper safety protection through the electrical panel.
Yes — electric heaters rely on sauna stones to distribute heat evenly and create soft, comfortable steam. Stones should fill the heater to the top without blocking airflow. Most heaters require 40–110 lbs of stones, depending on the model.
Most heaters warm a properly matched sauna in 30–45 minutes. Outdoor temperatures, insulation, ventilation, and the size of the room can affect warm-up time. Saunas with large glass surfaces may take slightly longer.
Traditional electric heaters can reach cabin temperatures of 170°F to 190°F, depending on the model and room size. What you feel inside the sauna will depend on your heater, stone load, air circulation, and overall sauna volume.
Most heaters warm a properly matched sauna in 30–45 minutes. Outdoor temperatures, insulation, ventilation, and the size of the room can affect warm-up time. Saunas with large glass surfaces may take slightly longer.
Electric heaters must have open space around them so heat can circulate safely. Clearances vary by model but typically range from 3–12 inches from benches and walls. Items such as towels or accessories should never be placed on or near the heater. Always follow the clearances listed in your sauna’s installation guide.
Maintenance is minimal. Keep the heater free of debris, ensure the heater stones are in good condition, and replace stones that have cracked or broken down. Check that the heater’s vents remain unobstructed and occasionally tighten any exposed mounting hardware. If the heater ever shuts off early or displays a fault code, allow it to cool and refer to the manual before restarting.
WOOD BURNING HEATERS
Wood-burning heaters work best with clean, dry, untreated firewood. Hardwoods such as maple, birch, or oak burn longer and hotter, while softwoods like spruce or pine ignite quickly and create a pleasant aroma. Avoid painted, treated, or manufactured wood products.
Most wood-burning heaters warm the room in 30–45 minutes, depending on the size of the sauna, outdoor temperature, and the moisture content of your firewood. Once the fire is established, heat builds steadily and feels naturally soft and comfortable.
Chimney components are typically sold separately so you can choose the correct length and style for your installation. Every setup requires a proper chimney system with high-heat–rated pipe, flashing, and a roof or wall exit depending on your layout.
Wood stoves require specific safety clearances from walls, benches, and combustible materials. These vary by model but commonly range from 8–20 inches. Heat shields or protective guards can reduce clearances if the manufacturer allows it. Always follow the exact measurements in your installation guide.
A properly sized wood-burning heater can bring the sauna temperature into the 170°F–195°F range, creating a classic, high-heat environment. Actual temperatures depend on airflow, wood type, and how strongly the fire is maintained.
Maintenance is straightforward:
- Empty ash regularly
- Use dry, seasoned wood to prevent soot buildup
- Check the chimney for creosote accumulation
- Replace sauna stones if they crack or break down
Keeping the firebox clean and the chimney clear helps maintain strong airflow and efficient heating.
Yes — wood-burning heaters require adequate ventilation to ensure clean combustion and consistent airflow. Most saunas include a lower intake vent near the heater and an upper exhaust vent on the opposite side. Proper airflow improves heat quality and keeps smoke from backing up.

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